Warm smiles and Warm heads

Jeff and I bought woolly beanies before in Taghazout whilst travelling there for Christmas in 2008. They were warm and thick and made of wool straight off a sheep’s back. Jeff’s even got a little wet and smelt exactly the way I imagine a wet smelly sheep would.


Anyway, while swapping the mayhem of Marrakech for laidback Essaouira, with my visiting mum and aunt, we stumbled across Otman. He was perched comfortably on a goatskin, knitting thick colourful cotton beanies or bonnets, welcoming us with warm a smile and friendly eyes. I had heard about Otman from other teachers who escape to Essaouira once in a while. He and his father knit the beanies and sell them along Derb Laalouj near the rampart walls for 50 dirhams each. Not a bad deal at all. If you like, he will even knit you a customised beanie in an hour and a half.

While my mum and aunt looked for their favourite coloured beanies as great gifts for family and friends, I had a chat with Otman.

Jellaba wearing Otman began making beanies at just 12 years old, alongside his father as a family business. He used to make them from sheep’s wool, but found that customers were complaining of the intense heat and itchiness that the wool produced. As well as fabricating bonnets Otman is also studying French. Many Moroccans speak French very well, but are limited when it comes to reading and writing the grammar intense language. Otman is currently 22 years old and he told me he would really like to study English, but at the moment there are no English language centres in Essaouira. Not a bad business idea I thought...

My mum and aunt had selected their beanies and Otman helped to finish them off, by adding extra tightness around the edge and stretching some where necessary.

With his friendly, calm and inviting manner Otman is sure to delight more tourists with his colourful and practical wares. With emails and business cards swapped, we were on our way with a bagful of beanies and snugly warm heads.

A windy time in Essaouira

We were in desperate need of a weekend retreat. A fellow teacher was having a visitor for the weekend so it was decided that we would take the 3 hour bus ride across to Essaouira and join them. Essaouira is a coastal town of about 70,000. It was originally a trading port and called Mogador, which now refers to the island off the coast. The medina is UNESCO World Heritage listed and Orson Welles filmed 'Othello' in the medina in 1952.

The beach is expansive and very windy. There are not many waves, but the conditions are perfect for kitesurfing and windsurfing. Jeff and I previously had a go at windsurfing in Essa back in 2007. I had a great time and would love to try it again when the weather heats up a little.

So this time, we relaxed with friends in a huge apartment/riad deep into the medina. We ate delicious fresh seafood and relaxed in the sun. Essaouira is a very pretty and clean destination in Morocco. I love the white walls and bright blue doors, windows and balconies. The locals are friendlier and the air is fresher. A perfect destination to escape the hustle and bustle of bursting Marrakech.